# The Dipping Motion and Fixing Problems

Unit: Glazing 101
Topic: Dipping with Tongs
URL: https://claybook.studio/learn/the-dipping-motion-and-fixing-problems/

# In, Hold, Out: Clean

The physical act of dipping looks simple but has a technique that determines whether you get even coverage or tong marks, air pockets, and drips.

## The Motion

1.  Hold the pot with tongs gripping the foot ring. The pot should be angled very slightly (not perfectly horizontal) so any trapped air can escape from inside.
2.  Lower the pot smoothly into the glaze bucket at a slight angle, allowing the inside to fill as you submerge.
3.  Once fully submerged, hold for 2–3 seconds.
4.  Remove in one smooth, deliberate upward motion. Do not pause halfway; stopping creates a tide mark.
5.  Tip any pooled glaze out of the interior immediately and hold over the bucket for a few seconds to let it drain cleanly.
6.  Set on a clean surface and inspect.

## The Air Pocket Problem

If you plunge the pot straight down horizontally, air traps inside and prevents glaze from reaching part of the interior.

**Fix**: Always enter the glaze at a slight angle so the inside fills from one side.

## Tong Marks

Even with tongs on the waxed foot, the grip sometimes leaves slight marks where tong pressure was applied.

**Fix**: Touch up bare spots with a brush immediately after dipping, before the glaze dries.

## Drips and Runs

As the pot drips after removal, glaze collects at low points and forms thick drips.

**Fix**: Keep the pot moving gently above the bucket; small rotations help distribute the excess. Wipe drips from the base with a damp sponge before they dry.

## Dip Diagnostics Flow
If results look wrong:
* Uneven thickness → check dip time and specific gravity
* Horizontal lines → smooth out removal motion
* Bare spots → check for dust/oils and tong grip marks

Fix one variable at a time so you know what actually helped.

## Explore More

Glaze thickness is critical because too much glaze can run during firing and fuse to the kiln shelf, a problem explained in the Wikipedia article on [ceramic glaze](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceramic_glaze). Potters who want precise control over thickness often measure their glaze with a [hydrometer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrometer), checking that the specific gravity stays in the ideal range for dipping.

## Common Mistakes and Quick Fixes

*   **Entering horizontally and trapping air**: Angle in so the interior fills cleanly.
*   **Stopping mid-lift**: Keep removal continuous to avoid tide marks.
*   **Ignoring small drips at the foot**: Clean them immediately with a damp sponge.
*   **Troubleshooting everything at once**: Change one variable at a time and retest.

## Practice Exercise

Film your dipping motion on your phone from the side for three pots in a row. Review for pauses, angle changes, and drain time consistency. This simple feedback loop quickly improves technique and repeatability.

## Check your understanding

### Question 1: Why should you enter the glaze bucket at a slight angle rather than horizontally?

- [ ] A. Angled entry covers the outside more evenly
- [x] B. It prevents an air pocket from trapping inside
- [ ] C. It keeps the rim from getting too much glaze
- [ ] D. Horizontal entry is always correct

Tip: Entering at an angle lets the inside fill from one side, preventing an air pocket from trapping inside the pot.

### Question 2: What causes a "tide mark" on a dipped pot?

- [ ] A. Dipping in glaze that is too thin
- [x] B. Pausing partway through the removal motion
- [ ] C. Holding the pot in the glaze too long
- [ ] D. Using tongs instead of your hand

Tip: Pausing partway through removing the pot leaves a visible line where the glaze surface was while the pot briefly stopped moving.